HOW TO PROPAGATE & CARE FOR MY THREE FAVORTIE HOUSEPLANTS, PART ONE: BURRO'S TAIL SEDUM

Blog post no. 3

Part One: Burro’s Tail Sedum or Sedum Morganianum

Step One: Deciding where to cut

Before you start cutting, I encourage you to take a moment to study the structure of your burro’s tail/donkey sedum. Does it have a stem that has some leaf loss? Can you see the stem exposed between those plump little leaves? This type of leaf separation happens for two reasons, either the sedum isn’t getting enough light so it is reaching and stretching towards the sun, or the plant has been bumped and the leaves have fallen off. ( which is VERY COMMON so just know--you are not alone). Sedum Morganianum are among the most delicate and fragile of leaves, which is why I’m here to walk you through a few simple steps and (hopefully) keep your plant intact and happy!

Step Two: Cutting the Stem

Once you find the stem(s) you’ll be cutting, I want you to pretend you’re about to cradle the arm of a newborn baby. Gently come up from underneath the stem like you’re about to pick up a baby bird or the paw of a tiny kitten and lightly cup your hand and wrist around the stem. Holding it’s weight while also wrapping your fingers around the leaves, you can lift it up and make your cut between the leaves right at the exposed stem letting the cutting gently fall into your cradled hand. Be sure to have a small plate or bowl nearby to catch fallen leaves (more on that in a minute).

While you have a gentle hold on this new cutting, slowly twist and then pull the bottom leaves off the stem, removing enough so you have a few inches of exposed stem, and place leaves into the bowl, plate, or any soft surface like tissue to catch the baby leaves. The idea is to treat them as gently as possible ….I think I *may* have made that kinda clear at this point. ;-)

Step Three: Replanting the Cutting

As with all succulent cuttings, it is SUPER important to let the end of the stem callose or heal over so it hardens off enough and it won’t be able to absorb too much moisture at once. (otherwise it’ll rot and then we’ll all be sad...yes, I will be too). I like to say it takes 5 days as a general rule of thumb, but you can check and see if it has calloused over after about 3 days and wait for up to 10.

Place your cutting (or cuttings) into cactus/succulent soil (I like EB Stone’s Cactus Mix) and bury the stem, press down on the soil around the stem to create a nice, firm and supported spot for it to begin growing roots and a new root structure to keep it strong.

Water well and leave in a very bright location. They love a few hours of direct sunlight each day but will tolerate super bright, indirect light too. As for the leaves, they also need to heal over a few days so as not to rot when exposed to water. I sprinkle them on top of the soil surrounding the new cuttings. They will begin the form their own little burro’s tail roots and eventually, after a few months, a few new leaves.

Step Four: Keeping Your New Plant Thriving

Ok, let’s talk houseplant care for your new burro’s tail. Plenty of light, plenty of drainage, water weekly and…..fertilizer! I really just love the tonic created by Mountain Organics Botanicals . They are plant based, organic and honestly, the most transformative fertilizer I’ve used. You can actually see the difference between the plants that have and have not been fed. It’s crazy. And also, so awesome that plants are helping other plants to thrive. I love it.

Okay friends, hope that is super helpful information. You know that I’m here for you. I’m so honored and happy to help you create a thriving Sacred Space.

OH! Also, this month I’ll be releasing my latest Youtube video covering this exact subject so you can see the visual tutorial as well. Feel free to head to my YouTube page and subscribe to see a new video every month.

Sending out the love,

Karina